May 16, 2011

And Operation Awesome Pants is underway!

At least in the testing phase. I figured I'd go ahead and document the process a little more closely--both because my idea to copy the Anthropologie pants seemed to generate some interest, and because this might help me for future pants projects! I'm not quite working on the actual pants yet-- I'm using up some stash to make what I hope will be a wearable muslin, though in a shorts version (since I'm lacking in those anyway.)

So here's where things stand so far-- all of this was done last Tuesday since I had unexpected time off work, though I haven't touched it since. (I just haven't had time to post, which is probably just as well given all the problems that Blogger had last week. Haven't had time to sew, either.)

I'm using elements of three different patterns to try and get this to work--the laced-up pants that was a purchased pattern, the waistband and fly front from the shorts, and the welt pockets from the second pair of pants (in the magazine.) All three of these are Burda, so I figured they'd be fairly easy to mix and match. For the sake of clarity, let's say the laced pants pattern is A, the welt pocket pants are B, and the shorts are C.

I traced out the various pieces I would need (though the legs of the pants are shorter), then got to work on the alterations. The first thing I tackled was the welt pocket from B, which is a vertical welt leading into a full-sized pocket. So I laid that over the side front of A and reshaped the side to match.

I didn't realize this when I got the pattern, but the front of A is actually split into two pieces! Which I'm hoping will look ok for the shorts. I'm actually quite happy with this discovery for the real version, because that is going to make adding a pleat to the pattern much easier.

This was me making the actual waistline....

....so I could check to see how the waistband of C matched up. The shape was almost identical, actually-- I just needed to fix the length a bit.

The waist of A had a facing rather than a band. So the next step was to change this to use a waistband instead. I just traced the edge of the C pattern, then added seam allowance (the more solid line that's closer to the top.)

Then I repeated this for the back, which was slightly complicated by the dart.
Once all of the pattern pieces were altered and trimmed out, I laid them out on the twill. For the test version, I extended the seam allowances to 1" instead of 5/8", so I'd have a little extra room to play with for fitting purposes. I just drew the seam allowances directly on the fabric with a disappearing marker.

And here's everything cut out and ready to go! I think I'm going to tackle this in a few stages. The first is going to be just a basic fit test, which will be all basted. Then I'm going to unpick the sides and do the actual welt pockets, because I've never done one of those before and I'd rather have a practice run. I also need to make sure that the fly front is going to work, since I've had trouble with those in the past.

Like I said, I haven't had time to touch anything sewing-related since Tuesday, though. Things have been super-busy over the last several days, and so the only time I had to actually sit down and sew would have been Saturday night after work. But by the time I got done with that, I was lacking the brainpower to tackle something as complex as merging three patterns. So what I have been doing is a little bit of knitting, and a little bit of sweater unraveling. (I caved and got a small tabletop swift from an Etsy shop, and a ball winder from Amazon--the ball winder isn't in yet, but the swift did arrive, and it's making unraveling those thrift-store sweaters so much easier already!) So there probably will be a knitting update post before too long....but not now, since I have to run off to the next job.


6 comments:

  1. I am madly in love with the plain Burda boot leg trousers with the welt pockets on the side. good luck. Burda patterns do tend to merge well - I know that all Burda sleeves match up.

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  2. These are going to be wonderful. I loooove flares with a passion right now!

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  3. It's such an ambitious project, but you seem to have your plan laid out. Good luck! I'm excited to see the final result.

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  4. Oh,serendipity ! I'm just starting this pattern myself . It's great to know you have started maybe, I could learn a thing or two from you.

    Best,
    Elise

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  5. I'm glad you're documenting this project so closely. It's going to be fun to see the finished result!

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  6. Well my hippie friend,

    I've started my trousers View A and am slowly moving forward. I'm ever so happy I didn't (although I wanted these very much) choose View B. I think I would be out of my league. Well,worse than I am now that is, ;) I love how you have done this step-by-step and having your accompaning thoughts help a lot.
    Thanks for visiting my wee blog and you kind comment.
    Very Best Regards,
    Elise

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