June 13, 2011

Good news, bad news (and a random question)

The good news: The test shorts are basically done. I finished sewing in the waistband facing today, did the button and buttonhole, and hemmed them.
I like the way the facing turned out--I was able to use up a nice chunk of a "fat quarter" piece in my scrap bin. I think I got these Celtic knot pieces in my Christmas stocking several years ago, and I'm finally finding ways to use them! I decided to hand-stitch it in, because I figured it would look nicer than topstitching it from the other side.


The fit is pretty good. Not too many wrinkles in the front...


...and though this picture is terribly blurry because the lighting in here kind of sucks for photos and I was holding the camera behind my back and taking the picture in the mirror, hardly any wrinkles at all in the back. And no gapping at the waistband! This is huge for me!

But the reason these aren't the final photos yet is this:
I had an unforeseen problem with the welt pockets: I underestimated my hips. :-P I wasn't expecting them to pull apart quite this much, and frankly, the inside of the pockets just looks bad. To the point where, as it stands now, this is only wearable with the longest shirts I own, and I don't think that would necessarily look good with such a long pair of shorts. I think I can salvage these so I can actually wear them (I mean, shorts that fit!)-- I have fabric left, and I'm going to try hand-stitching a patch into each of the pocket linings so that the outer fabric is showing instead of the wrong side of the pocket lining fabric. But this also means I have to rethink my pockets a bit before I can do the pants. So here's what options I'm looking at:

  • I can change the placement of the pockets, perhaps moving them a bit more off my hips and more onto my thighs. (But then, my upper thighs do tend to protrude a bit too, as I learned from the many, many jeans muslin fitting issues I had. So this may just move the problem elsewhere, rather than fix it.)
  • Theoretically, I could change the pockets to horizontal welts. Except that would pretty much kill both the lacing and the pleat, which is what makes these pants awesome.
  • I could eliminate the welt altogether, at least for side pockets, and instead just do regular side-seam pockets. Right now, this is looking like the safest, and therefore the most likely, option. And if I really want to do the welts, I could add a back horizontal welt pocket or two.
  • Theoretically, I could also eliminate the pockets altogether. But pants without pockets are dumb, IMO.
  • I could leave the pockets as is, and cut the back side of the pocket out of the linen so that all you see But I don't think that will eliminate the gapping problem (unless adding the pleat adds enough fullness back in that it closes it up.) Part of whether I consider this is going to depend on how my patch job looks, I think.
  • I'm not sure that widening the welts themselves will help. That might just make it harder to sew in.
So perhaps the lesson here is that curvy girls shouldn't have vertical welts on their pants?  I'm sure there's got to be a way to make this work...

Ok, random question time. I'm thinking it's about time that I did another blog giveaway. So I'm wondering, what sort of thing would you all like to see? Something handmade by me? A book? A gift certificate? Some kind of craft supply? I know the focus has changed a bit this year--still primarily a sewing blog, but I seem to have picked up some knitting bloggy friends since I picked that up. I'd love to hear your thoughts!

8 comments:

  1. damn, that is too bad about the welt pockets. I've been following your progress with interest, having made my last welt pocket when Grandma was alive and helping (1965). The shorts look wonderful-I hope you can save them.

    Giveaway? small amount of fabric, or a pattern with the stipulation that it be used, and then pictures published on a blog.

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  2. I think the shorts look good for a first draft. Too bad about the pockets though, I'm not much help in that department.

    About the giveaway, I would like if it was something that could be sent and used overseas :)

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  3. Honestly, I don't think it's possible for a welt pocket in that location NOT to gape open, because you bend there whether you're curvy our not. One fix you could do (I done this!) is to add a buttoned flap. That'll pull it together and keep it there. Of course, it would hide the welt too.

    The fit looks really good! Many well-fitting pants are in your future!

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  4. I like that idea, Joy! And it sounds like a MUCH easier fix than trying to hand-stitch inside a pocket. I'll have to look and see if I can find some buttons that go with the one on the waistband. Thanks!

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  5. Is it silly to suggest that you stitch them closed? You lose the pocket but save the pants. They look good otherwise.

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  6. Love the facing! :)

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  7. My first thought was perhaps you need to add just a little width over the hips so the pockets won't pull apart quite so far. However, the other commenter is right. Welt pockets are going to pull apart at least a little bit in that position. Also, if the fashion fabric isn't particularly thick, you could use it for your pocket linings next time around. Other than the pockets, those shorts look awesome!

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  8. The shorts really look great! The fit is excellent and they're a really nice length!

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